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Non-touristy Glow Worm Caves – New Zealand

October 20, 2014 | Updated: October 31, 2014 | By Elizabeth | 5 Replies More
Spellbound glow worm threads.

Spellbound glow worm threads.

Glow worm “sightings” are on the must-see list for many visitors to New Zealand. This isn’t hard to understand. Who wouldn’t want to see the “tail lights” of tiny invisible insects light up the inside of dark caverns and wooded dells. It’s an ethereal experience and one of the unique natural wonders of New Zealand.

The Arachnocaampa Luminosa glow worm – the transparent larva of the Fungus Gnat – is found throughout New Zealand. However, it has become almost synonymous with Waitomo Caves in the North Island. Visitors have traveled here since the 1880s to sit in the dark and wait for the lights to appear. For this reason, the Waitomo Caves are today one of New Zealand’s top tourist attractions.

Tourist activity vs real travel experience

And therein lies the problem for me. I’m a huge fan of authentic travel experiences and believe that overcrowded tourist sites are not good for people or the environment. When I was researching my guidebooks to New Zealand, I always found the sight of the tour-bus-clogged parking lot at Waitomo quite disturbing. Then recently, I nearly lost it when I read a report* describing the Waitomo Glow Worm Cave as a “moneymaker” and a “mass commercialized experience” aimed at “international short stay visitors from the Asian market.”

I also read about the damage that results from high numbers of visitors. Apparently, the Waitomo Glow Worm Cave is considered a “sacrificial site.” A study showed that the environment of the area could survive up to 300 people an hour, but “the limit of 300 people per hour is regularly exceeded.” The Waitomo Glow Worm Cave “concentrates activity so that other more environmentally significant sites remain relatively undisturbed.”

Frankly, I find that depressing.

Walking through Spellbound's Cave of the Spirit.

Walking through Spellbound’s Cave of the Spirit.

Where to find non-touristy glow worm options

The good news is that non-touristy glow worm caves and dells can be found throughout New Zealand. In fact, there’s an excellent option just a short distance from Waitomo.

Spellbound Glowworm & Cave Tours - 20 minutes from Waitomo Village

Spellbound takes small groups – maximum 12 people – to the Spellbound Glowworm Cave (Magawhitikau) and Cave of the Spirit (Te Ana o te Atua) located nearby on a beautiful backcountry farm.

The personalized 3 ¼ hour tour includes the scenic drive from Waitomo Village to the caves, two cave visits of 45 minutes each, refreshments (“a hot drink and biscuits”) and short scenic walks. The tour visits two different caves – the first is a cave with a boat ride and the second is a walk-through cave. Spellbound offers a great option for travelers who enjoy off-the-beaten-path experiences. The company is owned by Pete and Libby Chandler, and I wanted to stand up and cheer when I read the About Us page on their website. (I particularly like their pledge to not “treat you like cattle.”)

The Kawiti Glow Worm Cave is family owned and operated.

The Kawiti Glow Worm Cave is family owned and operated.

More authentic glow worm experiences

Kawiti Caves, North Island, about 210 km / 132 miles north of Auckland

The Kawiti Caves, formerly known as the Waiomio Caves, are owned and operated by the Kawiti family. The caves are a series of caverns set in a massive limestone outcrop.

The 30-minute guided tours follow a wooden boardwalk through a 200 meter / 650 feet limestone cave system. Once inside, visitors see thousands of glow worms spread across the ceiling surrounded by breathtaking stalactites and stalagmites.

The Kawiti tour follows a wooden boardwalk through a limestone cave system.

The Kawiti tour follows a wooden boardwalk through a limestone cave system.

The glow worm cave tours here were first established in the 1950’s by Te Tawai Kawiti, great grandson of the famous Maori Chief, Kawiti. Since then, Te Tawai’s descendants have followed in his footsteps, telling the history of the area, providing entertaining commentary, and sharing their local knowledge.

The Kawiti family has guided thousands of travelers through their caves, including Bill Gates who visited with his family in 2007.

The Hokitika Glow Worm Dell offers a free of charge view of the "tail lights."

The Hokitika Glow Worm Dell offers a free of charge view of the “tail lights.”

Hokitika Glow Worm Dell, West Coast, South Island, 48 km / 28 miles south of Greymouth

Here’s a great place to see glow worm activity for free – but there’s no tour and it’s BYO torch (flashlight).

On Highway 6, just north of the town of Hokitika, look for the Shining Star Beachfront Accommodation.  The entrance is acoss the road. Park and follow the path for a couple of minutes into a clearing where you’ll spots lots of little white lights glowing on banks that are more than forty feet high. It’s the largest outdoor glow worm gathering in the country.

From my perspective, standing alone in absolute silence makes for a more memorable experience than being part of a crowd in a commercialized setting. Just remember to douse your torch ASAP and don’t even think about using doing flash photography.

Don't miss the chance to soak in one of New Zealand's great thermal pools.

Don’t miss the chance to soak in one of New Zealand’s great thermal pools.

Finding Authentic New Zealand

While glow worm experiences are popular in New Zealand, they are just among the many, many dozens of wonderful activities this beautiful country offers. Personally, I like bush walking, visiting public gardens, photographing the scenery, eating wonderful farm-to-table food, kayaking, berry picking, soaking in thermal pools, and staying on farms and in B&Bs where my hosts are some of the friendliest people on earth.

And here’s a tip: you’ll have the most authentic New Zealand experiences when you are outside of the country’s two tourist triangles:

  • Auckland-Rotorua-Waitomo on the North Island.
  • Christchurch-Queenstown-Mt. Cook in the South Island.

I left my heart in New Zealand many years ago, and I wouldn’t be surprised if you do, too.

Have fun!

Elizabeth Hansen

*Tourism Impacts, Planning and Management
by Peter Mason

Tags: activities, adventures, caverns, caves, glow worms, glowworms, Hokitika, Kawiti, natural wonders, nature, New Zealand, sightseeing, things to do, top sights, tourism, traveling, Waitomo

Category: New Zealand

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Comments (5)

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  1. Mike Flood says:
    October 21, 2014 at 11:55 am

    Ten years ago my wife and I stayed at the Hot Water Beach B&B in Waikato, due east of Auckland on the east coast. After soaking in the hot water thermal pools in the surf, we were lamenting our missing the glow work caves when our very gracious host offered us torches and directions to glow worms that were not even on the map. After a short drive (10 minutes at the most), we walked in the evening darkness about 1/4 mile from the road across an open field to a beach and suddenly came upon what we thought were moss-covered rock walls. Actually, after adjusting our eyes to very low light, what we saw were rocks teeming with glow worms. Amazing, unforgettable sight!

    We were the only people there (or anywhere nearby). Our B&B host has added a dimension to our New Zealand trip we will never forget…

    Reply
    • steve armstrong says:
      May 9, 2017 at 8:53 am

      Hi, we will be spending a week next Feb in the hot water beach area, We would love to see glow worms, however my wife is very claustrophobic so this would be great, do you have a location??? I won,t tell My other 2 friends from Canada.

      Reply
      • Elizabeth says:
        May 16, 2017 at 11:52 am

        Hi Steve, Contact Spellbound http://www.glowworm.co.nz/ My experience is that the caves are quite open, so your wife should be OK. Enjoy New Zealand!

        Reply
  2. Heidi Jessup says:
    March 12, 2017 at 6:38 pm

    Hi Elizabeth -

    My daughter and I are planning a trip to NZ in June. I am actually meeting her in Bangkok and we though NZ would be fun as neither of us have been there before. We love your non-touristy glow worm options and just wondered if you had any other suggestions for two fit women — one in her 20s and the other in her 50s.

    We like a good adventure and are again fit, but not extremists. Any and all suggestions welcome.

    Thanks!

    Heidi

    Reply
    • Elizabeth says:
      March 16, 2017 at 10:41 pm

      Heidi,
      I highly recommend hiking in NZ. There are lots of good places for day hikes, but it’s also fun to try some of the multi-day ones. Last year we did the Queen Charlotte Track at the top of the South Island. However, I think you might prefer the Abel Tasman Coast Walk even more because there’s an option to kayaking part way. You can easily find more info online, but note that both of these need to be booked well in advance because lodging along the way is limited.
      Enjoy.
      Best, Elizabeth

      Reply

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